Ha Giang Loop Motorbike Tour — Guided Ride through Vietnam’s Far North
Ha Giang is the northernmost province in Vietnam and the one that draws more riders back for a second visit than anywhere else in the country. The loop covers the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark — a UNESCO-listed landscape of fractured grey limestone, river gorges, and highland villages that spent most of the 20th century in near-complete isolation from the lowlands.
The Ma Pi Leng Pass is the centrepiece, but the loop has strong riding from the moment you leave Ha Giang city. Four to seven days with a guide who knows every bend, every village, and every bowl of pho worth stopping for.
What the Ha Giang Loop Actually Covers
The loop starts and finishes in Ha Giang city, running a circuit of approximately 350 kilometers through the plateau counties of Quan Ba, Yen Minh, Dong Van, and Meo Vac before descending back to the city on the southern return road. The full circuit takes four days of riding at a pace that allows genuine stops. Six or seven days gives you overnight time in Dong Van and Meo Vac and the option to ride the higher tracks branching off the main loop into villages that see almost no visiting motorcycles.
The loop is contained enough to cover in a long weekend but rich enough in terrain and culture that riders who rush it almost always wish they had taken more time. We do not rush it.
The Destinations on the Loop
Quan Ba — The Twin Mountains
The first mountain pass north of Ha Giang city is the Quan Ba Pass, and the first view from the top sets the tone for the entire loop. The Twin Mountains, two symmetrical limestone domes rising from the valley floor sit directly below the pass viewpoint. The road drops through Tam Son town in the Quan Ba valley and continues north through increasingly dramatic karst terrain. Quan Ba is the entry point to the plateau and the landscape change from the lowlands is immediate and complete.
Pu Luong
Pu Luong Nature Reserve covers 17,662 hectares of limestone and schist mountain terrain in Thanh Hoa province, stretching along a ridge that runs parallel to the Laos border. The reserve is one of the last areas of lowland forest in northern Vietnam and the villages inside it — Ban Hieu, Kho Muong, and the stilt-house communities along the Cham River — have remained agricultural in a way that the more accessible parts of the northwest have not. The roads through Pu Luong are narrow, often rough, and rarely used by anything larger than a motorbike or a farm vehicle. That is exactly the point.
Moc Chau
Moc Chau plateau sits at 1,050 meters and is covered in tea plantations, dairy farms, and plum orchards that bloom white across the hillsides in late January and early February. It is one of the few places in northern Vietnam where the landscape looks genuinely temperate — green hills, morning mist, cattle on the road. The town itself is a provincial centre with good food and a busy market. The riding around Moc Chau covers the plateau edge roads where the sealed surface drops away into valley tracks, and the route north toward Pa Co where the terrain gets more serious.
Ta Xua
Ta Xua is a ridge at 2,865 meters in Son La province, accessible by a dirt track that branches north off the main highway between Moc Chau and Yen Bai. It is one of the less-known highlights on the northwest circuit and one of the best riding days on the entire route. The track to the summit passes through Hmong villages at progressively higher elevations and emerges above the cloud line onto a ridge where the views extend across three provinces on clear days. The descent is steep and technical in sections. Not a destination for riders who are uncomfortable on loose dirt at altitude, but for those who are, it is the kind of road that is hard to forget.
Nghia Lo
Nghia Lo sits in the Muong Lo valley — one of the four largest rice-growing valleys in northern Vietnam — at around 280 meters elevation. After the altitude of Ta Xua and the passes above Moc Chau, dropping into Nghia Lo feels like entering a different world. The valley floor is continuous rice paddy, and the Black Thai communities here are known for a distinct weaving tradition and a style of stilt-house architecture that differs from the communities further north. Nghia Lo’s market day draws traders from across the surrounding hills and is worth timing the route around if possible.
Mu Cang Chai
Mu Cang Chai is the image most people see when they think of northern Vietnam terraced rice paddies carved into mountain slopes at elevations between 400 and 1,800 meters, photographed from the road on the approach from Nghia Lo. The terraces cover approximately 2,200 hectares and are a UNESCO-recognized cultural landscape.
The roads through the Mu Cang Chai district are some of the best motorcycle roads in the northwest sealed on the main valley route, with dirt tracks branching up to the higher terrace villages at La Pan Tan, Che Cu Nha, and De Xu Phinh.
September and October are peak season when the paddies are gold before harvest. The terraces are worth riding through at any time of year.
Son La
Son La is the largest city in the northwest and the natural hub of the region. At 700 meters elevation it functions as both a transit point and a destination in its own right. The old French prison in the centre of the city — used to hold Vietnamese political prisoners during the colonial period — is still standing and open to visitors.
The market below the prison is a working provincial market rather than a tourist attraction, and the food in Son La is the best in the northwest for riders who want to eat where the locals eat. Roads out of Son La connect north to Dien Bien Phu, south back toward Hanoi, and west toward the Laos border.
The Route — Day by Day
This is the 8-day full circuit. The 5-day version skips the Ta Xua detour and compresses the Mu Cang Chai section to a single riding day.
Day 1 — Hanoi to Mai Chau via Pu Luong
Leave Hanoi southwest on Highway 6, peel off toward Pu Luong before reaching Mai Chau. The road into Pu Luong Nature Reserve drops off the main highway onto a valley track that runs between limestone outcrops and rice paddies to the stilt-house villages along the Cham River.
Afternoon riding through the reserve before climbing out to Mai Chau for the first overnight. The White Thai village of Lac in the Mai Chau valley is the standard overnight guesthouses in traditional stilt houses, evening meal with the host family. Approximately 140 kilometers, 4 to 5 hours including the Pu Luong detour.
Day 2 — Mai Chau to Moc Chau
The road from Mai Chau to Moc Chau climbs out of the valley on Highway 15 through Pa Co and Hang Kia — two Hmong villages sitting on a high ridge above the valley floor, reached by a narrow road that switchbacks up the limestone face. Pa Co and Hang Kia are 90 percent Hmong in population and the architecture, dress, and market culture reflect it completely. The descent off the ridge to Moc Chau plateau covers the full elevation change in a series of long bends through pine forest. Moc Chau by early afternoon, time to explore the plateau roads and tea fields before dark. Approximately 100 kilometers, 4 hours.
Day 3 — Moc Chau to Ta Xua
The Ta Xua detour branches north from the main road between Moc Chau and Yen Bai on a dirt track through Son La province. The first section is manageable laterite road climbing through Hmong villages on the lower slopes. Above 1,800 meters the track narrows and steepens through cloud forest to the ridge summit. The views from the Ta Xua ridge extend across the Mu Cang Chai valley to the east and the Son La plateau to the west on clear days — mornings are more reliable for visibility than afternoons when cloud builds. Descend and continue to Nghia Lo for overnight. Approximately 130 kilometers, 6 to 7 hours including the Ta Xua climb and descent.
Day 4 — Nghia Lo Rest and Valley Riding
A slower day based in the Muong Lo valley. Morning ride through the valley floor tracks between Black Thai villages — flat, easy, and a deliberate change of pace after the previous day’s altitude. Nghia Lo market if the timing aligns. Afternoon free in town. This day functions as a buffer between the technical riding of the Ta Xua section and the sustained mountain riding ahead. Riders who want more distance can extend north toward Mu Cang Chai in the afternoon. Approximately 50 to 80 kilometers of optional riding.
Day 5 — Nghia Lo to Mu Cang Chai
The road north from Nghia Lo climbs the Khau Pha Pass, one of the four great mountain passes of northern Vietnam, topping out at 1,200 meters with views back over the Muong Lo valley on the southern approach and the Mu Cang Chai terraces beginning on the northern descent.
The pass road is sealed and the surface is good. The descent brings the terraces into full view, the scale of them is only clear from the road, where the carved hillsides extend in every direction as far as the visibility allows. Mu Cang Chai town by lunchtime, afternoon on the terrace roads at La Pan Tan and the higher villages above town. Approximately 60 kilometers, 2 hours on the main road plus afternoon riding.
Day 6 — Mu Cang Chai to Son La
West from Mu Cang Chai on Highway 32 toward Muong La, then south on Highway 37 to Son La. This is a longer transit day that covers the western arc of the circuit, the road runs through the Son La highlands on a sealed route with lighter traffic than the main Hanoi-Son La highway.
Muong La has hot springs that work well as a lunch stop and a swim. Son La by late afternoon. Good food in the market area below the old prison. Approximately 200 kilometers, 5 hours.
Day 7 — Son La to Hoa Binh via Highway 6
The return leg follows Highway 6 southeast from Son La back toward Hanoi through Hoa Binh province. This road carries more traffic than the circuit roads of the previous days but runs through genuinely good mountain terrain, the Thung Khe Pass between Moc Chau and Mai Chau, and the long descent into the Hoa Binh reservoir basin.
Hoa Binh city sits at the edge of the reservoir and works well as the final overnight before Hanoi. Approximately 230 kilometers, 5 hours.
Day 8 — Hoa Binh to Hanoi
The final 75 kilometers back to Hanoi. Flat, fast, and straightforward. Most groups are back in the city by late morning. Bike return, debrief, and the rest of the day free.
Route Overview
- Duration: 5 days (compressed) or 8 days (full circuit)
- Total distance: 600 km (5-day) to 900 km (8-day)
- Daily average: 60 to 230 km depending on day
- Terrain: sealed mountain road, plateau tracks, dirt switchbacks on Ta Xua section, valley floor tracks around Nghia Lo and Mu Cang Chai
- Highest point: Ta Xua ridge, approximately 2,865 meters
- Start and finish: Hanoi
Terrain and Road Conditions
The northwest circuit mixes sealed national highway, sealed provincial road, and unsurfaced district tracks in roughly equal measure across the 8-day route.
The main highway sections, Highway 6 between Hanoi and Son La, Highway 32 between Mu Cang Chai and Son La are sealed and maintained to a reasonable standard. The district roads branching off these arteries vary considerably. Some are sealed but narrow. Some are laterite with corrugation. Some are stone track that has never been paved and never will be.
The Ta Xua section is the most technically demanding terrain on the circuit. The dirt track to the ridge is steep in places, loose on the upper section, and exposed on the descent. Riders who are not confident on unpaved surfaces at altitude should skip Ta Xua on their first time through the northwest and return for it on a subsequent trip.
The Pu Luong section at the start of the circuit is easier, narrow valley tracks on manageable gradients through the reserve, with nothing that requires specific off-road skills.
Weather affects the northwest significantly from June through September. Road surfaces on dirt sections become slick and the pass roads carry cloud and reduced visibility. The circuit is rideable in this period but conditions require more caution and some sections may be impassable after heavy rain.
Skill Level
Rated: Intermediate, with an advanced section on Ta Xua
The main circuit without the Ta Xua detour is accessible to any rider with touring experience and comfort on a manual motorcycle in mountain conditions. The sealed sections dominate the distance and the dirt tracks in Pu Luong and around Mu Cang Chai are gentle enough that a rider with limited offroad experience will manage them with a guide present.
The Ta Xua section moves this into intermediate-to-advanced territory for that specific day. Riders who are not comfortable on loose dirt at steep gradients should communicate this before departure and we will route that day differently. There is no shame in skipping a section, the rest of the circuit is strong enough to stand on its own.
The Bikes
Honda CRF 300L covers all variants of this route including the Ta Xua section. The combination of ground clearance, low-end torque, and manageable weight makes it the right tool for a circuit that moves between sealed passes and dirt tracks within the same riding day.
Honda XR 150, or XR 190, is available for lighter riders on the sealed-road version of the circuit. Not recommended for the Ta Xua section or the rougher Pu Luong tracks.
Honda CB500x, suits the sealed sections well and handles the easier dirt tracks without difficulty. On the Ta Xua climb its additional weight becomes a factor — riders choosing this bike for the full circuit should have experience managing heavier motorcycles on loose surfaces.
All bikes carry a full toolkit and first aid kit. Sweep rider carries spare levers, cables, and a basic parts kit on all group tours.
What Is Included
Included: guide fee, sweep rider on group tours, motorcycle rental for the full duration, fuel on all riding days, accommodation throughout, breakfast daily, and national park and nature reserve entry fees where applicable.
Not included: international flights, Vietnam visa, personal travel insurance with motorcycle coverage, lunches, dinners, and personal purchases. Accommodation on this circuit ranges from guesthouses in Son La and Moc Chau to traditional stilt-house homestays in Mai Chau and villages along the Pu Luong valley. Where you sleep in the highlands is part of the experience, we do not standardize it into hotel rooms.
Travel insurance covering motorcycle riding is mandatory for all riders.
Best Time to Ride the Northwest
October and November are the peak months. The rice terraces at Mu Cang Chai reach harvest gold in late September and hold through mid-October. Mountain air is clear, temperatures are comfortable at altitude, and the roads are dry after the summer rains have finished. These two months draw the most riders to the northwest and guesthouses in Mu Cang Chai book out early, plan ahead if you are targeting this window.
December through February is cold. Ta Xua and the passes above 1,500 meters drop below 10 degrees Celsius at night and the mornings start cold enough to affect riding comfort. Roads are dry and clear but riders need proper cold-weather gear above 1,000 meters. Not a reason to avoid the northwest in winter, a reason to pack accordingly.
March through May works well before the rains arrive. Plum and peach blossoms cover the Moc Chau plateau in late January and February, the temperatures are warming, and the terraces at Mu Cang Chai are being planted green rather than gold, but photogenic in a different way.
June through September is manageable but carries risk on the dirt sections. Ta Xua in the wet season requires solid offroad experience. Pu Luong valley tracks become slippery and some creek crossings run higher than normal. Possible with the right skills and expectations, not the window we recommend for riders new to the northwest.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Mu Cang Chai worth visiting outside of harvest season?
Yes, but differently. The gold terrace photographs come from the harvest window in late September and October. Outside this period the paddies are either being prepared, planted, or growing — green at varying stages. The roads and the riding are identical year-round. The villages, the culture, and the highland landscape do not change with the rice cycle. Riders who come outside harvest season typically find fewer other tourists and more space on the terrace roads, which is its own advantage.
How difficult is the Ta Xua section for a rider without much offroad experience?
The lower section of the track to Ta Xua ridge is manageable for an intermediate rider who is comfortable on a loaded bike on loose gravel. The upper section above 2,000 meters is steeper and more technical, loose stone over compacted earth, narrow with limited recovery space on the uphill side. A rider who has not ridden offroad before will struggle here. We assess the group’s comfort level the evening before the Ta Xua day and adjust accordingly. It is not compulsory and the main circuit route around it is genuinely good riding.
Can this tour be combined with the Ha Giang Loop or North Vietnam Circuit?
Yes. The northwest circuit connects naturally to Ha Giang at the northern end riders who want to extend from Son La to Dien Bien Phu and then north to Ha Giang can do so by adding 3 to 4 days to the itinerary. The combined northwest and Ha Giang route covers the most comprehensive sweep of northern Vietnam available in a single continuous trip. Contact us to build a combined itinerary around your available dates.
What are the homestay options like on this route?
Mai Chau and the Pu Luong valley have well-established homestay networks in White Thai and Muong stilt-house communities. These range from basic family homes with shared facilities to slightly more developed homestay guesthouses with private rooms. Mu Cang Chai village homestays in the higher terrace areas are more basic sleeping in the family home, shared outdoor bathroom, meals cooked by the host. We brief riders on what to expect at each overnight stop before departure so there are no surprises.
Does this route go to Dien Bien Phu?
Not on the standard northwest circuit. Dien Bien Phu is 90 kilometers west of Son La and connects to the Laos border at Tay Trang. Riders who want to extend the circuit to include Dien Bien Phu and continue into Laos should look at the Vietnam Laos Motorbike Tour, which picks up from this point and crosses into Phongsali province. The northwest circuit can be extended to include Dien Bien Phu as a private tour variant — contact us to discuss.
Book the Northwest Vietnam Motorbike Tour
Group departures run October through April for the full circuit including Ta Xua. Private bookings available year-round. To check dates, ask about combining this route with Ha Giang or extending to Laos, contact us directly.
We respond to all inquiries within 12 hours.